Monday, May 5, 2008

Where am I?


To my loyal readers:

Thank you, so much, for reading Goûter. As you have probably gathered, my prolonged absence from posting means that the blog is currently not up and running. After two busy months, I looked back and saw that I had abandoned my blog; with a heavy heart, I realized that perhaps Goûter was over as I was too embarrassed -- and most importantly -- too restricted by my budget to turn back. Goûter was becoming quite gourmet and my near-empty pockets could no longer sustain the pressure for ingredients and lofty meals. Perhaps one day, I'll return.

But not to worry -- I have begun a new project called making ends meat: Adventures of a Foodie With High Taste on a Low Budget. This new blog is already experiencing a lot of success, as people really enjoy the recipes and the philosophy, and even New York Magazine gave me a shout out on their Neighborhood Watch section: Meryl Streep/Julia Child Movie Shot Footage at Provence. So stop over to Making Ends Meat and keep track of my life, lived tastefully, on a budget.


Des gros bisous,
Amanda

making ends meat
http://makingendsmeat.blogspot.com

Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Greek dinners are always abundant, and are about three things : family, friends, and passion. I like to think of these dinners as being less food-oriented as they are people-oriented, the food , always shared, an accessory to the table. Cooking is like a ritual : everyone has a role, and it always serves a very precise social role in the family or friend unit ("parea" as we all our little friend tribes.) But above all, it is transcended from yaya (grandmother) to mitera (mother) to sons and daughter everywhere. The good thing about being a displaced Greek is that despite the cross-cultural metamorphosis of life, the food is what binds us together. That, and the parties : Easter, name days, any excuse to get together and dance a tsiftetelia.

On this ocassion, my Greek mother from Thessaloniki and her friend, a lovely woman from Athens displaced to the South of France and us, the half Greek daughters, danced around a 3 pound salmon from Alaska (salmon travel cross-country too) to entertain our non-Greek parea (the husbands boyfriends and sons.) Though I don't abide by the women in the kitchen rule, the passing down of time-old traditional cooking is something you just don't say no to. And the men did the dishes.

So here you are, from Greece to Belgium and France via Washington DC, A recipe for Greek-style Salmon.

5 red ripe tomatoes
One pound Potatoes, standard
3 onions
4 lemons
Olive oil (In Greece, olive oil is GREEN. Find the Greek-Green!)
Pastis (A licorice-flavored liquor)
Salt
Pepper
Rosemary, thyme, basil, oregano
One ginormous salmon, whole, emptied.

Cut all tomatoes and onions in circular pieces. Place in a large baking plate so as to cover the bottom.

Peel and cut potatoes into half inch circlular pieces. Place on top of the onions and tomatoes.
Add another layer of tomato, onion, and lemon cut into similar circular pieces.

Sprinkle salt, pepper, herbs, and olive oil.

Place salmon on top. Stuff with more tomatoes, onions, and lemon. Add herbs and olive oil/lemon juice inside.

Pour over a half cup of Pastis, a half cup of olive oil, and a 3 lemons worth of juice.

Preheat oven to 425. Place salmon in and cook for 1 hour.

Serve with a light salad and voila. The simplest, most beautiful salmon you've ever seen. Kali Orexi!

Sunday, February 24, 2008

The Whisk & Ladle Supperclub: Williamsburg.


Even before asking one's name, everyone introduced themselves at TheWhisk & Ladle with one question: "So, how'd you get in?"

Since its official opening in September 2007, The Whisk & Ladle supperclub in Brooklyn has been shrouded by the mystery of exclusivity. The five-course dinners are strictly by invitation only, which can be requested through their website. Many of the people who attended dinner in late February had been on a waiting list for six to nine months. Some had sent multiple requests, and were in awe that their requests had been answered, nevermind actually to have been accepted.

For $50, a trio of by amateur foodies prepares a five-course meal for about 26 guests in their superbly decorated Williamsburg loft. Specialty cocktails and wine include Whisk & Ladle has no liquor license, nor has it been approved by the New York Department of Health. None of the cooks have been professionally trained, and the supperclub doesn't have a Zagat rating. But getting a reservation at the Whisk & Ladle may actually be more challenging than getting a reservation at Babbo, Del Posto, maybe even French Laundry. Whisk & Ladle's publicity is simply by word-of-mouth and the occasional, adulatory review on Gawker or Thrillist that certainly helps to increase the hype (and effectively water down the crowd).

Whisk & Ladle started back in 2002 as a series of dinner parties thrown by the original W&L cook in her Inwood apartment. When she made the decision to attend law school over culinary school, her regular soirées became necessary to reinforce her raison d'être. Then in 2006 after relocating to Williamsburg and taking on three roommates, the lawyer-chef developed the Whisk & Ladle as a pseudo-business, run exclusively on minimal profit just for the hell of it.

The original cook was in absentia for the dinner I attended. Instead, all five courses were conceived and prepared instead by one of her culinary partners, a charming and friendly educational entrepreneur who was as excited to be a member of New York's revolutionary food underworld as he was humbled by his lack of formal culinary training. With a kitchen staff of about eight, plus additional servers, he executed a dinner for 26 people with a hardworking precision and a contagious enthusiasm that kept his service from seeming at all routine.

The ostensibly pirate-themed insignia of the Whisk & Ladle, a skull and crossbones trapped inside the wire loops of a whisk, is a far cry from the decorations of the dining room apartment itself. The multi-level, high-ceilinged industrial loft is ornamented by a slathering of vintage goodies, from a grandfather clock to a banner of the worlds great Communist leaders (which happens also to be the banner for the quartet's badminton team, The East River Badminton Club). The atmosphere is welcoming, but tense. W&L's owners and groupies are keen to strike up conversation and invite you with grace into their home. Among the supperclub's eager, Gawker-reading guests however, there is the tension of feigned pretension, coupled with awestruck gratitude to be dining inside the club's cinderblock walls.

The evening opened with signature cocktails at the bar. Located within the open kitchen area, the bar gives a view into the bustle of last-minute preparations and plating, where as many as six cooks and prep cooks work all at one time all in the same, tiny space. The cocktails at the bar are nothing but pure genius; names such as "The Freshman Girl" and "Fleurs du Mal" hearken back to the good old days at University. The "Fleurs du Mal" was my potion of choice, the most conservative and elegant mixture on the menu made of vodka, Framboise, and Champagne with just a touch of lemon. The bartender, an affable Hamptons summer journalist by profession, creates all of the drinks himself, using an array of ingredients from cantelope to red onion.

Dinner began with a trio of soup shots, all playing on the cook's interest in making the perfect stock. The first, Tomato Soup with Apples, used an onion stock base. Its murky, caramel color suggested cream, but the soup was actually quite brothy and warm. The next was a Duck Soup with Cream-Poached Garlic, garnished with bits of scallion. For some, this was the favorite, but I found it to be far too salty (and would have been far better utilized in the main course, more later). The last soup was a Mint Lamb Broth. Simple and rich, it was quite a good stock to use in dishes, but would not have been interesting enough if it had been served as a full serving of soup.

With a loud clapping of his hands, the cook and host announced dinner and invited us all to sit around three tables with mismatched vintage chairs, flatware, and generous pours of Alsace wine. The appetizer course was an exploration into onion done three ways: Poached Cipollino with Chèvre Brulée; Leek purée with whipped potatoes; Scallion-parsley salad atop an Asiago crisp. The cipollino was a novel idea, but could have been poached a bit longer (and perhaps in a more flavorful broth) to make it less pungent and strong. The chèvre brulée was creamy and incredibly fresh. The leek purée was absolutely delicious with a perfect, sinewey texture that was complimented by the smooth whipped potatoes. The scallion-parsley salad resembled a fattoush, and was surprisingly full of flavor for herbs to be found in winter. The salty and oily asiago crisp was a nice contrast to the freshness of the bitter herbs.

The highly anticipated main course came after a long wait: Turkey breast with Chicken Liver, Duck, and Brussel Sprout stuffing with Macadamia Nut Crust. This was served next to Nutmeg Polenta, with a side of bite-sized bits of perfectly poached asparagus and a strawberry relish. In later conversation with the cook, I learned that the inspiration for the main course was simply "why not". Since the head cook was out for the night, our cook decided on turkey because it was the one protein that W&L had never done before. The addition of the other fowl as a stuffing was his take on Turducken.

The result was quite good, but just missed excellence; the stuffing on its own was very tasty, but it lacked enough salt and fat to hold its own or even complement the thick and tough meat of the turkey breast. The macadamia crust was a great complement for texture, but would have benefitted from a quick toast in the broiler to bring out the flavor of the nuts and add some color to the white meat. I absolutely love polenta, and I was charmed by the creamy corn sidedish with the unique and distinct taste of nutmeg. Nutmeg, because it is so pungent, is a challenging spice to use, but the cook put in just the right amount to make this unusual spice twist really work. I really appreciated the asparagus, both for color and for the freshness of the vegetable. Though the colors on the plate were rather bland without the red strawberry, a midwinter meal can be served with varying neutrals, offset by the deep green of the asparagus.

My two major qualms with the main course was the turkey's lack of moisture and the addition of the strawberry relish. The cook told me that his signature touch is always to have a contrasting fruit on the dish to add another dimension of flavor. I think this idea is excellent, but I would have done it a bit differently. To begin, I would have taken the duck soup from the starters and reduced it to a semi-thick gravy, serving it as the piping hot base layer on the plate. I would have then added the creamy polenta in a mound atop the gravy, also served piping hot to keep it from losing heat en route to the table. The turkey would have then been served, as it was, in tasting-menu portion slices atop the polenta to reveal the inner stuffing. A slight drizzle of gravy to wet the dry turkey and finish the plate, and then served a complementary, seasonal pear chutney -- the spicing of which I leave to the imagination and craft of W&L's cook for future meals. The main course was a good concept and a good start, but there is room to improve this dish for future meals.

Dessert was served with black and green Darjeeling teas that were smuggled in from a W&L comrade's recent trip to India. The teas were delicate and exquisite, perfect for the sweet course. Dessert was a tasting trio: a Raw Chocolate truffle, homemade by the one of W&L's neighbors; Almond Cake with Pomegranate-Apricot glaze; and Gorgonzola Crema. The chocolate was so good that it was, without a doubt, worth breaking my Lenten abstinence from chocolate. It was dark, rich, bitter, and full of satisfying, sensual flavor. The almond cake was moist and textured, and the glaze was so fresh -- a perfect complement to the nutty richness of the cake. The gorgonzola crema, however, seriously confused me. It was way too pungent and strong for a dessert cheese, and distracted from the flavors of the cake, fruit, and chocolate. On its own, the crema would have made a great starter. But as a dessert cheese, it was too much an affront to the senses, and would have been better replaced by a more delicate version of bleu cheese, or a rich, fresh boucheon de chèvre.

Overall, the dinner was more like a tasting menu than a full, five-course meal. As a dinner among friends it was exceptional, but just fell short of the quality that comes with training to prepare a meal for a rated New York restaurant. However, I congratulate the Whisk & Ladle for their ingenuity and creativity, and the cook for his boldness in taking risks with ingredients when cooking on such a large scale. Despite all of the hubbub and Gawker-worship, the Whisk & Ladle has remained humble and excited about serving up interesting and unique meals. Even though reservations are scarce and the diners do tend to be a little overzealous, the supperclub really is just a really marvelous dinner party, thrown by a bunch of enthusiatic cooks who love what they do.

Tuesday, February 5, 2008

Aphrodisiac Dinner



Nothing says "I love you" more than a meal made by hand. But few things say "I want you" more than a meal made hand in hand.

Cooking is so tactile; a true chef touches, pokes, kneads, licks, rubs, and tastes everything before it leaves the kitchen. It is a craft that requires complete submission to the senses, as one must be attune to the way food tastes, smells, and feels in order to get the ingredients to come together in the perfect dish.

Valentine's Day is most likely the busiest restaurant day of the year, but the prix fixe menus restaurants tend to serve are as bland as the menu's of New York's infamous Restaurant Week. Instead of taking your sweetheart out for an overpriced meal made en masse quantité, stay home this year, fire up the stove, and try this Valentine's Menu. The meal itself takes a lot of prep and cook time, which gives you and your lover to toast the night together in the kitchen in anticipation of the meal. Almost all of the ingredients have aphrodisiac effects, so by the time the soufflé rises, you'll be ready for dessert.


Valentine's Day Aphrodisiac Menu


Arugula Salad with Candied Pecans, Crispy Onions,
and Bleu Cheese in Champagne Vinaigrette

Champagne Farotto with Maple-Chile Seared Scallops and Asapargus

Ricotta Soufflé with Chocolate and Raspberry Sauce


For more Valentine's Day inspired meals, click over to my favorite sites:

Epicurious

Jamie Oliver's Romantic Dinner

A Sexy Soirée

Effortless Breakfast in Bed


Food & Wine

Chef Couples' Most Romantic Meals

Chocolate


Food Network

Wine Pairing Guide

Arugula Salad with Candied Pecans, Crispy Onions, and Bleu Cheese in Champagne Vinagrette



This salad is light, yet rich in complementary and sensual flavors. The burnt, smoky flavor of the onions is tempered by the creamy bleu cheese, and the sweet spice of the pecans is brought out by the fresh tartness of the arugula greens. And of course, each of the ingredients has its own aphrodisiac power.


Arugula: The aphrodisiac powers of arugula were first made known in ancient Rome and Egypt, as it was associated with fertility. It is also said that this digestion-promoting green helps to clear the mind.

Pecans: Cultures throughout global history have celebrated as symbols of fertility. In ancient Greece, almonds were thrown at newlywed couples to wish for a fruitful honeymoon. In addition, the healthy fats in nuts help to produce testosterone.

Onion: In Arab folklore, mixing the juice of an onion with honey produced a potent cocktail for male virility.

Cheese: Cheese contains a large amount of PEA, phenyl ethylamine, which is believed to release the same hormones that are released to the brain during sex.



Arugula Salad with Candied Pecans, Crispy Onions, and Bleu Cheese in Champagne Vinaigrette

Serves 2

For the salad:
1 small Red Onion
1 Tbsp Date Sugar (or raw cane sugar)
1 tsp Cinnamon
1/2 tsp Allspice
1/4 tsp freshly ground Nutmeg
1 tsp Canola Oil
1 tsp Honey 1/2 cup
Pecans
2 handfulls Arugula
1/4 Bleu cheese, crumbled from a fresh wedge

For the dressing:
1 small shallot
1/2 cup Extra Virgin Olive Oil
3/4 cup Champagne vinegar
1 Tbsp Grain mustard
1 Tbsp honey
Salt and pepper
Green tea, to thin dressing as desired


Pre-heat oven to 400-degrees Fareinheight. Slice onion in half along its length; peel off outer skin. Make thin slices of onion in half-moon arcs. Spread out on broiler tray and put in oven to cook for 10-15 minutes, until onions are crispy.

In a small bowl, mix cinamon, allspice, nutmeg, canola oil, and honey. Toss in pecans, and coat completely. Place spiced nuts in broiler pan in 400-degree oven. Roast until nuts are fragrant, about 7-10 minutes.

In a small food processor, chop up shallots. Add the remaining ingredients and blend in processor. Add green tea (or another neutral liquid, like vegetable broth) to thin dressing as desired.

Toss arugula greens with dressing in a large bowl. Plate greens in a small mound, sprinkle with onions, pecans, and bleu cheese.

Champagne Farotto with Maple-Chili Seared Scallops and Asparagus



Warm, creamy, sweet, and then so spicy... This delicate champagne "farotto" uses my favorite Italian grain, farro, instead of arborio rice. The glaze on the scallops is simply tantilizing, as it teases your palate first with a natural, sugary sweet, then finishes with a swift flash of chili spice.

Champagne: The effervence of champagne gets to the bloodstream more quickly than wine, making the whole body feel the warm glow of this most celebrated aphrodisiac. It is also said that the scent of dry Champagnes are similar to the aromas of female pheromones.

Cheese: Again, cheese contains a large amount of PEA, phenyl ethylamine, which releases the same such of hormones that is experienced during sex. This dish is loaded with creamy fromage.

Asparagus: The aphrodisiac quality of asparagus is almost purely in its long, phallic shape. But in addition, this healthy vegetable contains lots of nutrients that are necessary for the production of healthy hormones.

Scallops: Scallops were first associated with aphrodesiac powers in ancient Greece, as myth claims that Aprhodite floated on the sea to earth on the shell of a scallop. Recent studies have shown that scallops and other bivalvles may have the ability to raise the levels of sex hormones in both men and women.

Maple Syrup: Like honey, the thick viscosity of this woody nectar is what makes it so sensual. Though maple syrup specifically does not have any documented aphrodisiac powers, its incredible sweetness is the perfect contrast to the piquante chile.

Chile: Chile peppers increase heart rate, release endorphines, and cause a feeling of energy to wave over the entire body. These effects of this spicy pepper are exceedingly familiar to the act that will inevitably follow this sweet, yet spicy, entree.


Champagne Farotto with Maple-Chile Seared Scallops and Asparagus

Serves 2


For the Maple-Chile Glaze:
1/4 cup fresh Maple Syrup
1/2 tsp Salt
1/2 tsp Red Pepper Flakes
1/4 tsp Mustard Powder
1/4 Paprika
1 Tbsp Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 tsp Chili-infused Olive Oil (if none available, replace with olive oil)

For the risotto:
2 cups Fish Stock
2 cups Chicken stock
1 cup water
Olive oil
1 Shallot, thinly sliced
1 cup Farro (or Arborio Rice)
3 champagne flutes Champagne, plus one reserved
1 cup Parmesan cheese
Salt and Pepper, to taste

Fresh Diver Scallops, portioned as desired
6-10 spears fresh Asparagus


Whisk together ingredients for glaze in a large, shallow ramekin. Add scallops and set aside while risotto is cooking to allow glaze to infuse with spices.

In a small pot, heat stocks and water to a boil, then turn down to a simmer. This will be used to cook the rice by keeping it at a steady temperature.

Heat a medium saucepan on high. Add olive oil and shallots, sauté until almost transparent. Add rice and reduce to medium heat. Sauté rice to toast, about 3 minutes. Add champange, and allow liquid to become absorbed by the rice. Add a ladle-full of warm broth mixture to rice, stir, and allow to absorb. Continue this process until rice releases its gluten and becomes thick, 30-40 minutes. When rice is soft, add last flute of champagne. When champagne has been mostly absorbed, add cheese, and fold together. Add salt and pepper, to taste.

In between ladling when rice is nearly done, begin work on the scallops. Heat a large sauté pan on high, add a drizzle of olive oil to coat entire bottom of pan. Add scallops, and sear on both sides, about 1-2 minutes each side. Remove from pan and place on a warm plate near stove to finish cooking through.

Blanch asparagus in a boiling pot of water. Remove after 1-3 minutes.

To plate, add a mound of risotto to a shallow bowl. Arrange asparagus to rest at an angle, and place desired amount of scallops on top. Drizzle a fragrant olive oil over dish and serve immediately.

Enjoy with your lover and a bottle of full-bodied Condrieu.

Chocolate Soufflé with Raspberry Sauce



My mother used to make these soufflé without chocolate when we were young. We used to love her lemon-ricotta soufflé desserts, and whenever we had them, it was a special treat. However, these soufflé are actually very easy to make, and they are quite healthy and low-fat as well.

The chocolate in the soufflé makes these perfect for an aphrodisiac dinner, and the red raspberry sauce pouring out of the soufflé is a festive accent for Valentine's Day. This is an adapted recipe from the original Lemon-Ricotta Soufflé from one of my mother's old Cooking Light magazines.


Chocolate: Chocolate’s reputation as an aphrodisiac is deeply embedded in the history of Western civilization. The great Aztec ruler Montezuma, one of the first red hot lovers to tap into chocolate's strengths, was reported to have consumed as much as fifty cups of chocolate elixir before heading off to his harem. Chocolate contains phenyl ethylamine (PEA), which releases the same hormone as is released during sexual intercourse. Although naysayer object that the amount of PEA in chocolate is too small to produce significant results, this sweet drug also offers doses of the feel good hormone serotonin and caffeine along with its surge of PEA.


Chocolate Soufflé with Raspberry Sauce

For the soufflé:
Butter and Sugar for coating and dusting soufflé ramekins
1/2 cup lowfat milk
1 bar, about 5oz, dark Chocolate
1/4 c plus 1 tbsp Sugar, divided
1/2 c part skim Ricotta cheese
2 Tbsp all-purpose flour
1/2 tsp grated lemon rind
1/2 tsp Vanilla extract
Dash of ground Cinnamon
1 egg yolk
2 egg whites
Dash of salt
Fresh raspberries

For the raspberry sauce:
1/2 cup water
1 10oz package frozen Raspberries
Lemon rind
Honey, to taste


Pre-heat oven to 350 degrees.

Brush butter around the entire interior of ramekins, dust with sugar, and dump out excess.

In a food processor, add 1/4 c sugar, Ricotta cheese, flour, lemon rind, vanilla, cinnamon, and egg yolk. Process until smooth. Spoon mixture into a large bowl and set aside.

Beat egg whites and salt into soft peaks. Gradually add remaining tablespoon of sugar as peaks form.

Gently fold egg mixture into cheese mixture. Spoon mixture evenly into four 6oz souffle cups. Place the soufflé cups in a large baking pan, add hot water to pan to create a water bath to cover halfway up the soufflé ramekins.

Bake for 30-35mins, until puffed and golden.

While soufflés are baking, boil water, raspberries and lemon rind in a small pot until mixture has thickened and reduced. Pour mixture through a chinois to separate pulp and seeds from berry liquid. Return berry liquid to small pot and continue to reduce on medium heat. Add honey to desired sweetness.

Serve soufflés immediately upon taking them from the oven to they do not fall. Place ramekin on a small plate, and using a small paring knife, cut an incision across the top of soufflé. Spoon in raspberry sauce, allowing sauce to pour down over the sides. Sprinkle with fresh raspberries.

For an extra treat, push a piece of chocolate, or a chocolate truffle, into the center of the soufflé before adding raspberry sauce.

Monday, February 4, 2008

The Sex Life of Food: An Aphrodisiac Primer

“Elizabeth: I am still looking for you. I have not stopped loving you. Call me, my love. You know where I live: Métro Le Dru Rolin. The last time we saw each other was the 14th of February. And then… no more? – Pierre.”


When it comes to love, what gives us the energy to keep us longing, searching, pining? What kind of amorous hunger drives a man to seeming madness; to poster the sides of ancient buildings throughout Paris in an attempt to once again taste a one-time lover? What is it about love that is so insatiable, and what do we find about being in love that satiates our desires?

Love is biological. It is part of our global history and culture, though its expressions vary across geography, religions, and customs. Love is chemical, just as sexuality too is chemical. According to a February 2006 National Geographic Article, love is a reaction in the pleasure parts of our brains where there are dense patches of dopamine receptors. The biological response to this thing called “love” creates an imbalance of dopamine (which makes us bold, adventurous, active) and just as heartbreak creates an imbalance of serotonin (which makes us lethargic, depressed). Essentially, love, in its most fundamental form, is simply a chemical imbalance.

So can love just be explained away (or even shooed away) by dry, boring, unromantic biology? I don’t believe this is true. What makes this chemistry of love so romantic is that who we fall in love with – meaning, whose pheromones most ardently interact with our own – is beyond our control. The adage, “You can’t choose who you fall in love with” is indeed very true. Love begins with attraction, a meeting of the eyes that lingers longer than you had expected, and grows as we engage our human ability to rationalize and become increasingly co-dependent with our mates.

The need for love and for sexuality are two distinguishable things: the former is based in large part on the constructs of society and the ability of humankind to use rationality (or at times, to ignore it); the latter, while moderated by social constructs and made complicated by rationality, is more fundamentally chemical and biological. One’s hunger for sex is fueled by a series of chemical reactions, the same set of chemical reactions that triggers one’s cravings for food. Both sex and the nutrition of food increase the amounts of adrenaline, serotonin, and dopamine in our brains. Beyond the obvious need to continue the succession of the human species, these chemical parallels between food and sex suggest that they are equally necessary for survival. It is no surprise then that food has historically been used to augment the sexual experience, and that in turn sex has been so often fetishized by food.

Everything we eat is a product of sex. Fruits and vegetables are ovaries. Eggs are baby chicks. Over time, we rational and sex-starved humans have recognized the sexual power inherent in food and used it to fuel and sometimes satiate our sexual desires. Aphrodisiacs came out of human history as means to support sexual health. The people of ancient times were far less properly fed as we are today; this lack of nutrition resulted in a lack of energy and chronic lethargy, which ultimately took a toll on reproductive health. Without proper nutrition from food, women experienced challenges to their fertility, while men suffered weakness in their virility. More immediately, undernourishment decreased libido, and thus food became an important method of stimulating sexuality both by providing fuel for the body and inspiring the mind.

The disappointing truth is that for today’s man and woman, the aphrodisiac effects of food have a far less pronounced effect biologically than such foods had on men and women of ancient times. We are far too well fed, in fact far too overfed, to experience the rush of chemicals that an oyster, an apricot, or a blowfish might effect. But what has not changed is the psychological experience of foods and of eating: the slow viscosity of honey is still so sensual, the bubbles of champagne so ebullient, and the banana and the papaya still resemble parts that make our minds wander. For the more sensual of us epicureans, a peach is never just a peach.

With Valentine’s Day just a few days away, the question on most every foodie’s lips is: what can I feed my lover that will turn him or her on? The good news is that almost any food can be an aphrodisiac: it isn’t always what you eat as much as how you eat it. Preparing a meal with your lover can be a very erotic prelude to food you will actually eat. Bubbling pots, olive oil sizzling in pans, heat from the oven, and the slow, consuming aroma of a meal in preparation all contribute to the build up of anticipation that must release in climax. Both the human sexual response and romantic response increase the amount of heat and adrenaline in our bodies, and the afterglow is a product of the release of dopamine and serotonin. So the expectation and excitement of preparing a meal in a hot kitchen, coupled with the satisfaction of sharing this meal with your lover in fact mimics the entire exchange of the sexual experience.

But what to cook? Why is a sausage sexier than a hot dog? Or vice versa? The key to a successful aphrodisiac meal is combining comfort with adventure. Know what your lover craves to make her feel comfortable at the table, but throw in an unusual twist to pull her out of her comfort zone, thereby increasing her adrenaline and her libido. A meal of completely unusual foods will be too distracting and daunting, whereas a meal of only familiar foods will just breed complacency. If he loves risotto, add something he won’t be expecting to take him off guard and excite him: Champagne Risotto with Maple-Chili Glazed Seared Scallops and Asparagus. Chances are that this little culinary spark of something new in a familiar dish will stimulate your lover’s imagination to find the spicy bit of chili in you.

To get you started, here is a list of some of the more unusual aphrodisiac foods and their significance as aphrodisiacs. These were borrowed, quoted directly from Eat Something Sexy, the fantastic website of Master of Gastronomy Amy Reilly. Visit the aphrodisiacs page to discover more foods that will help you rise to the occasion.


Apples
Ah, the apple, the temptation of Eve - the downfall in the Garden of Eden. But then, what pretty girl could ever pass up a shiny, lipstick red, orchard-fresh fruit of the gods? The ancient Greeks also loved the apple. Instead of slipping a ring onto a fair maiden's finger, a Greek warrior was supposed to toss an apple to the - ah - apple of his eye. If she caught the fruit, the act was as good as an engagement.

Absinthe – An ultimate emblem of decadence during La Belle Epoch, Absinthe was the cocktail of choice on Paris' wealthy nightclub scene. Mixed with water dripped over a sugar cube on a specially designed silver spoon, the drink was an ultra-chic fashion statement. But its true power lies not in presentation, but the dangerous mix of distilled herbs from which the drink derives its distinctive flavor. Absinthe's ingredients include a mixture of Chamomile, Hyssop and other herbs, but its potency and supposed hallucinogenic capabilities are owed to the addition of wormwood, a shrub-like perennial. The drink has been credited with everything from curing stomach ailments to inspiring great works of fiction. The most devout of Absinthe's fans credit the drink with visions of a gorgeous green fairy, La Fee Verte, (think Tinkerbell meets Barbie).

As of October 2007, absinthe without thujone was made legal in the United States.

Apricots – The fruit’s name derives from “apricock”. Australian aboriginals used apricots as an aphrodisiac. The apricot’s pit, or kernel, was steeped as a tea. The flesh of the fruit was crushed and rubbed on the suitor’s erogenous zones as a pre-coital perfume.

Celery –
Packed with energizing nutrients, celery stimulates the pituitary gland – a primary gland in the release of sexual hormones. In addition, there is some evidence which points to the scent of celery as suggesting androstenone, the primary male pheromone. As far back as the Middle Ages, the power of celery was well understood, according to a quote unearthed in the Eighteenth Century by Grimod de la Reyniere, “It is enough to stress that [celery] is not in any way a salad for bachelors.”

Eggs – Because of its association with new life, the egg was considered the ultimate symbol of fertility among almost every ancient nation. The Egyptians believed their god created the egg out of the sun and moon.

Figs – Legend has it that eating a fresh fig while naked in front of a woman is one of the world's most erotic acts. Because when its split down the center and cradled by a palm, the fig's pink flesh is said to resemble a woman's sweet unmentionables. The luscious fruit's womanly wiles were immortalized in the words of one of literature's dirtiest birds, author D. H. Lawrence, who dedicated a poem entitled “Figs” to its sensuality. Some historians suspect that the fig's original home was the Garden of Eden, and that the fig was the original temptress, the true forbidden fruit.

Garlic The powers of garlic in which lovers should take note are not those that fight sleep apnea or winter sniffles, but its purported power to inspire extraordinary stamina and unbridled energy. The ancient Greeks fed garlic to top athletes prior to Olympic competition to encourage peak performance.

Ginger – Its classification as a natural aphrodisiac comes from its ability to increase circulation. Served pickled, candied or in the raw, ginger increases sensitivity in the erogenous zones. French legend Madame du Barry made a practice of serving ginger to her lovers. It was said to drive all, including her most famous lover, Louis XV, to a state of complete and utter submissiveness.

Goji BerriesKnown for centuries in Asia, goji berries are called “happy berries” in China, where there aphrodisiac powers are held in high regard. In Chinese medicine, goji berries are administered to strengthen the adrenal system, believed to be a center of sexual energy. The fruit’s aphrodisiac status even found its way into an ancient Chinese proverb warning men who travel away from their families: “He who travels one thousand kilometers from home should not eat goji!”

GrapesEven before it is transformed into that delicate, fermented beverage, grapes are linked symbolically with love, fertility and virility. The ancient Romans, acknowledged as the first civilization to cultivate grape vines, made both grapes and wine emblems of Bacchus, god of ecstasy (not to mention fertility). Even pre-dating the Romans, in ancient Greece it was a tradition to give clusters to newlyweds in the belief that the grape’s seeds would bless the couple with many children.

Honey The nectar of Aphrodite, honey is one of the most seductive foods in the world. Sticky, viscous, deliciously sweet, honey is as much a sensual experience as it is a delicious indulgence.

Kava KavaKava kava's sexiest effects are experienced when it is transformed into a traditional Polynesian drink. A mildly narcotic elixir, this drink is believed to elevate consciousness while relaxing muscles, a delicious combination indeed. In some island cultures, during ceremonial periods in which women and men are segregated, the men will drink kava kava to evoke illicit dreams of the woman in their lives – or the woman of their dreams.

Mustard It is mustard’s pungency that earns the seed its aphrodisiac classification. Its intense, spicy flavor is credited with causing a rise in adrenalin. According to the research of Australia's Dr. Max Lake, mustard causes “maximal stimulation of the pain fraction of taste.” It is this balance of pain and pleasure that brings eaters to gastronomic climax.

Oats – Its evidence has only emerged in recent years, but it seems the term “sow your wild oats” has roots in health science. Green oat has been used for centuries in Chinese medicine as a treatment for low libido. Oats, (including oat bran, wild oats and oat straw), may be among the most potent and least expensive edible libido enhancers. In controlled studies, the power of concentrated oats has been proven to significantly raise testosterone levels in members of the rugged sex.

Pomegranate – One of the most prominent aphrodisiac fruits of Greek mythology, the pomegranate was considered a culinary symbol of Aphrodite, the goddess of love. It was also, along with grapes and figs, one of the ceremonial foods of Dionysian rites. A splash of Valentine's red, even the pomegranate's color suggests desire. (In ancient Middle Eastern cultures, this aphrodisiac fruit's many seeds were considered a visual symbol of virility).

Rosemary “And there is rosemary, which stands for faithfulness." Ophelia from Shakespeare's Hamlet. In addition to encouraging digestion, rosemary is noted for its powers to increase circulation. Bathing in a tub scented by a few drops of rosemary essential oil promises to circulation to the skin and sensitivity to touch.

Saffron Saffron is a rare Eastern beauty. Its aphrodisiac allure, according to the Knights of Arabia, who used this elusive sorceress with judicious wisdom, is believed to be most effective on women. The Romans adopted a slightly differing opinion, using saffron to scent the baths of both aristocratic gentlemen and their female lovers. Its slightly pungent, herbal taste and stunning hue dominate in the cuisines of the Middle East, but its allure crosses cultures into the foods and lifestyle of Europe's glamorous Mediterranean coast.

Tomato The tomato has been linked to the Garden of Eden. Some even call it the “other” forbidden fruit. Even into the 19th Century, Catholics questioned the tomato's “morality.” It earned a place, as a matter of fact, on the brethren's list of forbidden dishes, along with any other food that put into question the ability of lust-filled young members of the church to maintain self-control within the scarlet tomato's presence.

Uni – An aphrodisiac in Japan for thousands of years, sea urchin, or uni, as the Japanese call it, rose to popularity in North America in the late twentieth century. Contrary to popular belief, the portion of the sea urchin sold and served as one of the ocean’s most opulent treasures is not the roe. It is the gonads of this hermaphrodite sea creature that are scooped out of the urchin’s spiny shell in five custard-like, golden sections. From a nutritional standpoint, sea urchin is one of the most prominent culinary sources of anandamide, a cannabinoid neurotransmitter. Does this mean that eating uni will produce a similar effect to ingesting marijuana? Probably not, but it is possible that uni activates the dopamine system in the brain, humans’ built in “reward circuit.”

Vanilla – Vanilla's power is in its aroma. Before a vanilla-specked morsel can hit the tongue, the hypothalamus, the gland that controls memory and emotion, jumps into action, evoking feelings connected with vanilla's powerful scent. Dropped into bath water, vanilla will transform the body into sensuous mind-tease.

Saturday, January 19, 2008

Warm Arugula and Treviso Tartine with Midnight Moon Goat's Cheese



So simple... yet oh. So good.

There is nothing more appetizing to me than a dish full of color. Though summer produce is celebrated for its varied palette, the richness of winter colors appeals to me in a way that is far more alluring and sensual.

I came back from a yoga class today, not feeling too hungry, with a fierce appetite to cook. I tried a few fingerfulls of fresh baby arugula, then found a leftover half of an English muffin from eggs a few nights ago. The crisp, bitter taste of the greens jogged my sensory memory back to the day before, when I took a lunch break with my friend from work to eat at Quartino Bottega Organica, a quaint yet stylish little Italian restaurant-cum-wine bar on Bleecker Street near the Bowery that serves all organic food for discerning New Yorkers and European tourists alike. Our panini -- served like a pizza -- came with mozzerella tucked inside a round, whole-wheat crust, and was topped wildly with fresh arugula and slices of heirloom tomato. We agreed that it was a good idea, but lacked a principal ingredient: salt.

My tastebuds inspired me beyond the simplicity of Quartino's panini: I nix'd the mozzarella and substituted Cypress Grove Midnight Moon Goat Gouda with a bit of aged parmesan, roasted half of a tomato, and sautéd the arugula with onions and purple treviso. Treviso, or radicchio rosso, is a lettuce from the Veneto region in Northern Italy that looks like the love child of radicchio and endive. I prefer treviso over radicchio for some recipes because I find that treviso leaves are milder and softer than the tightly-bound, round radicchio bulb.

The colors of the dish were deliciously vibrant and the flavors were astonishingly complementary for a 10-minute meal.

And of course, there was just enough salt.


WARM ARUGULA AND TREVISO TARTINE WITH MIDNIGHT MOON GOAT'S CHEESE

Serves 2, as a light lunch or a snack

1 English muffin, or two slices of fresh, whole wheat bread
1 handful of fresh baby Arugula
2 large Treviso leaves
1/4 small yellow onion
1/8 c shaved Midnight Moon Goat's Cheese
1 Tbsp shaved Aged parmesan
1 large Vine-ripened Tomato
Herbes de Provence
Olive oil
Salt & Pepper


Preheat broiler to high, 450 degrees.

On a small plate, combine about 1 Tbsp olive oil with a generous pinch of Herbs de Provence, and a pinch of salt and pepper. Cut tomato in half along its girth. Rub the cut side of both tomatoes down into the herbed olive oil mixture. Place tomatoes, oily side up, in a broiler pan and place directly under broiler, about 10mins, or until soft and beginning to brown.

Chop treviso leaves into bite-sized pieces. Slice onion into thin, half-moon slices. Heat a sauté pan on the stove, and sauté the onions on medium heat. Once onions have become transparent and are beginning to brown, turn off heat on pan and add arugula and treviso. Sauté leaves with heat off, pushing around with a wooden spoon, until greens wilt. Set aside.

Warm bread in oven at 375-degrees so it just begins to toast.* Remove, and sprinkle cheeses directly on bread. Add greens mixture on top, then another sprinkle of cheese. Position tartines on a baking sheet in oven on the middle rack. Bake until cheese melts and bread becomes crisp.

*Alternatively, keep an eye on bread and tartines so they do not burn, and bake in the same oven in which the tomatoes are broiling at 450-degrees.

Remove tartines and tomatoes from oven. Arrange a small handful of fresh arugula greens on plate, positioning one tomato on top. Place on tartine to the side.

Enjoy as a light meal or a snack, accompanied by a smooth and light Nebbiolo wine.

Buon appetito!


Les Œufs à la Coque Provençaux



In our diet-conscious, low-fat, low-calorie society, we often forget something very important about eggs: eggs have yolks.

The gooey, warm, yellow center of the egg has lost favor among health-conscious eaters because of their reputation as the fatty part of the egg that is packed with cholesterol. When you consider the biology of the egg, this comes as no surprise: the yolk is the food source for the developing embryo, the baby chick that would hatch from the egg if it were fertilized. Therefore, the yolk is a complete life-support system, packed with vitamins (A, E, D, K, B6 and b12), minerals (calcium, iron, phosphorus, zinc, to name a few), essential amino acids and Omega-3s and -6s (if the eggs are raised naturally on pasture). Yes, the yolk is full of fat and cholesterol, but with all of these other health benefits, one egg is enough to serve as a very healthy source of protein and fat, as well as a potent multi-vitamin that is as nutritious as it is easy to swallow.

Les Oeufs à la Coque is the French name for the 3-minute egg. A dear college friend of mine first introduced me to this delightful meal at Le Pain Quotidien, a world-wide, French farm-style, organic restaurant chain. Their breakfast specialty is the oeuf à la coque, served in a tiny egg cup with little matchsticks of organic bread known as soldats, little "soldiers" that one dunks into the warm and runny yolk of the egg. After the soldats are consumed, one then finishes off the egg with a spoon by delicately scraping the white from the interior of the shell.

After mastering egg cooking techniques in my tiny kitchen in Paris, I re-introduced the egg yolk to my parents back home. My mother -- ever the health-conscious one -- was immediately smitten; the yolk reminded her of her childhood, when her Portuguese mother would prepare eggs for the children and my mother would soak up the runny yolks with crusty bits of Portuguese bread. My father was astonished by how delicate eggs could be; the eggs of his childhood were fondly known as "Eggs Like Daddy Makes", a Sunday brunch concoction whereby my paternal grandfather would empty the contents of refrigerator leftovers into a bubbling pan of scrambled eggs, finished off with a generous touch of Tabasco sauce.

My favorite preparation of oeufs à la coque combines the richness of the egg with the freshness of tomatoes, the sweetness of which offsets the salt used to garnish the egg. I also like to serve these with steamed asparagus spears, which make very tasty soldats. I call this particular preparation Les Oeufs à la Coque Provençaux after I used Herbes de Provence (a gift from a long-time friend) to season the tomatoes. This preparation is also more rustic than traditional oeufs à la coque as the egg is served on top of a slice of crusty bread -- simply because I have yet to purchase a set of porcelain egg cups.


LES ŒUFS À LA COCQUE PROVENÇAUX

Serves 2

2 Organic, free-range Eggs
1 cup Cherry Tomatoes
Olive Oil
Herbes de Provence
Salt and Pepper


Cut Cherry tomatoes in half. Heat a small sauté pan over the stove, add about a teaspoon of olive oil and a generous pinch of Herbes de Provence. Toss in tomatoes, and sauté until tomatoes become soft and slightly browned. Set aside.

Bring a small pot of water to a boil. Gently drop eggs in shells into boiling water. (Eggs should be room temperature, or else they make crack or cook unevenly.) Boil eggs for 3-6 minutes, depending on desired runniness of egg yolk. Remove eggs from boiling water, and cool by running eggs in their shells under a cold water tap. Remove shells carefully using fingers.

Toast a slice of bread, an English muffin, or crumpet. Arrange bread on a plate with a helping of tomatoes on the side. Place egg on top of bread, split with a knife, and allow egg yolk to run over bread and plate. Add salt and pepper, to taste.

Enjoy immediately, with a fork and knife, or with steamed asparagus soldats.

Bon appétit!

Saturday, January 12, 2008

Swordfish Steaks with Moroccan Spice Rub and Couscous


I have always wanted to travel to Morocco. There is something about the culture, the landscape, and of course, the food, that has always intrigued and allured me. Moroccan cuisine is exotic because of the delicate mix of intricate spices like cumin, cinnamon, coriander and ginger. But it is also a cuisine that is quite simple and readily accessible here in the United States. Couscous -- a Moroccan staple -- can be found on almost all supermarket shelves, and traditional dishes like tagine are slow-cooked stews that require little active cooking.

Argan oil is a lesser-known ingredient to Americans. Argan is a tree species indigenous to the deserts of Morocco. The oil that is extracted from the fruits of the tree is golden-hued and has a distinctively nutty flavor. It can be purchased at specialty stores and fine groceries. I first discovered it at the Marché Biologique at the Rennes Metro stop in Paris, and I've seen it at on occasion at the Columbus Circle Whole Foods in New York.

In some ways, French colonial influence has influenced Moroccan cooking -- though perhaps the influence is reversed. Many French restaurants have adopted Moroccan spicing to their dishes, all the while retaining traditional western preparations. The French love couscous, spices, and Moroccan patisserie and street food; some of the most popular carry-out places in Paris are the falafel joints, and almost every street has its resident North African kebab window. Moroccan restaurants are rife in Paris, especially in the Marais district, in the 3e and 4e arrondissements on the Left Bank. My favorite is 404 Restaurant Familial, where the sexy, dark décor, sumptuous food, and full-bodied Moroccan wines make for a delicious and authentic dining experience.

This recipe for Swordfish Steaks and Couscous is a very simple dish, made more interesting by a simple Moroccan spice rub. With its western preparation, it could very easily be found on a menu at a French restaurant. This meal is very healthy, low in fat, and an excellent source of protein and whole grain, if you use whole-wheat couscous. The toasted almonds and wine-soaked raisins make this light couscous side dish absolutely scrumptious and rich-tasting, especially with a touch of Argan oil. I recommend pairing this dish with a white wine like Joseph Druhin Macon-Village (2005). The white fruit flavors of apple, the crisp mineral tonality, and the hint of anise are perfect complements for the spices in this dish.


SWORDFISH STEAKS WITH MOROCCAN SPICE RUB AND COUSCOUS

Serves 4

4 Swordfish steaks
Olive Oil

For the spice rub

1 Tbsp Coriander
1 Tbsp Cumin
1 Tbsp Chile
1 Tbsp Brown Sugar
1 tsp Salt
1/2 tsp Cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground Fennel Seed
1/2 tsp ground Black Pepper

For the couscous
2 c Whole Wheat Couscous
1/4 cup Golden Raisins
1/2 cup sweet Marsala wine
1/2 cup slivered Almonds
2 c Chicken stock
2 c water
Olive oil
Salt and pepper, to taste


Mix all spice rub ingredients together in a large bowl. Brush swordfish steaks with olive oil, then coat fish in the spices, rubbing the mix over all sides. Set aside, and allow to marinate for at least 1hr.

Turn oven broiler to high. Place a cast iron pan in oven to heat up for about 15 minutes before cooking fish.

In a small baking dish, toast almond slivers under broiler until browned and fragrant. Set aside.

In a small sauté pan, bring Marsala wine to a boil, add golden raisins, and reduce to a thick syrup, until wine evaporates as much as possible. Set aside.

In a medium-sized pot, bring water and chicken stock to a boil. Stir in couscous, cover, and remove from heat. Let stand 5 minutes until all water is absorbed, then fluff with a fork, adding almonds and raisins, salt and pepper to taste.

Being extremely careful of the hot cast iron pan, take it out of the oven, and quickly arrange swordfish steaks before returning pan, with fish, directly under the broiler. The heat of the pan will help cook the steaks more thoroughly, and it will sear and caramelize the rub. Broil swordfish steak for 7 mins under broiler on one side, turn to other side for 4-5 mins if necessary. Swordfish will be done when it is white and opaque, and moist on the inside.

Serve swordfish atop a mound of couscous with a drizzle of argan oil. This meal goes well with vegetables such as zucchini, yellow squash, and asparagus, roasted in the oven in olive oil and salt and pepper. Serve meal with Macon-Villages, and finish with a plate of Moroccan pastries such as Gazelle Horns, a simple ambrosia of oranges, mint, and honey, and a soothing cup of Moroccan mint tea.

Bon appétit!

Sunday, January 6, 2008

Red Vegetable and Arugula Salad with Dijon Vinaigrette


After a week of holiday feasting, I found myself craving a simple, fresh salad -- but I had no time to make and enjoy one. In the New Years' rush to get back to the city, I had resigned myself to bringing a portable meal of apples and trail mix to share with Conor on the train. But ever the resourceful gourmet, Conor surprised me with a perfect salad of tangy, fresh arugula, which we shared en route, clanking forks as we took hungry bites from the same tupperware container.

This salad is a perfect concoction that is as satisfying for its simplicity as it is for its variety of flavors. Starting with a base of arugula, Conor then added roasted beets, sundried tomatoes, roasted red peppers, parmesan cheese, which the then dressed in a light dijon vinaigrette.

This is a great salad packed with vitamins and nutrients to kick off a healthy new year. Though it looks like a lettuce, arugula is actually a cruciferous vegetable in the cabbage and mustard family. Arugula is rich in phytonutrients, which may reduce the risk of several kinds of cancer, such as breast, stomach and colon cancers. Beets are healthy little powerhouses loaded with vitamins A and C, phosphorus, magnesium, calcium, and iron. Red beets are pigmented by betacynin, which is a powerful agent that fights cancer. Red bell peppers are full of color, which makes it a rich source of antioxidant vitamins A and C. Tomatoes too are loaded with vitamin C, and have gained attention for their high concentration of lycopene, which has been shown to reduce the risk of prostate cancer. Olive oil contains healthy, essential fatty acids, as well as high levels of vitamin E, which helps delay aging and also protects the ova to improve sexual health.

The salad is extremely simple to assemble, but I've over-complicated the recipe to teach techniques for roasting and "sun-drying" at home.



RED VEGETABLE AND ARUGULA SALAD WITH DIJON VINAIGRETTE

Serves 2

For the salad:
2 generous Handfuls of fresh baby Arugula
2 Red or Golden beets
1 Red Bell Pepper
12 Roma tomatoes
Mixed herbs (such as Herbes de Provence)
Olive oil
Salt and pepper
Parmesan cheese

For the dressing:
3 Tbsp Extra Virgin Olive Oil
5 Tbsp White Balsamic vinegar
1 Tbsp Dijon mustard
Salt and pepper

Pre-heat oven to 450-degrees. Place beets with skin in a roasting pan, and roast in the oven for 45mins to 1hr. Remove beets, immediately place in an ice water bath. This will help pull the beet away from its skin. Peel skin and set beets aside.

While beets are roasting, cut Roma tomatoes in half, length-wise. On a small plate, mix together about 2 Tbsp olive oil, 2 tsp herbs, and salt and pepper, to taste. Rub all sides of tomato halves in oil mixture, and place flat side down on a baking tray. Roast in oven with beets for 10-15mins, until soft and deflated. Take out tray and turn all tomatoes over to flat side up and continue to roast for another 10-15mins, until flat. Place under broiler* at 450-degrees for an additional 5 mins on either side, until tomatoes are flat and shriveled, but not burnt. Take out and set aside.

Once beets are done roasting, turn on broiler to 450-degrees. (*This is a good time to put the tomatoes under the broiler.) Place roasted red pepper in a cast-iron pan or roasting pan, and position under broiler. Broil pepper until charred and mostly black, turning after each side chars to expose all sides to the broiler. Remove, immediately place in a ice water bath. Remove skin, and remove seeds from interior, being careful to retain the juice of the pepper in a mason jar.

All of the roasted vegetables can be stored in mason jars in the refrigerator for 2-3 weeks. Peppers should be stored with their juices; tomatoes should be stored in olive oil; beets can be stored dry or in olive oil.


Combine all ingredients for the dressing and mix together in a small bowl or cruet.

Toss together arugula, slices of beets, bits of tomatoes, and bite-size strips of pepper in the dressing. Portion the vegetables to your taste. Shave curls of parmesan cheese on top. Serve immediately.

Bon appétit!

Saturday, January 5, 2008

New Year's (re)solution


Many of us will begin 2008 with noble expectations of self-betterment. With diet ads abound making every American regret his Christmas pudding, most of us will attempt to eat "better" and lose weight. Others will promise themselves to exercise more, spend less money, or quit smoking. Some will become seekers, hoping to find a better job, true love, or fulfillment in one's daily life. But by February, the winter doldrums will set in, and most of us will forgo the treadmill, buy a $12 full-spectrum lightbulb to ease Seasonal Affective Disorder, and plop down on the couch at home, alone, with a pint of Ben & Jerry's and an ashtray full of cigarette butts.

This sad relapse is the New Year's Burn-Out, the result of American society's go-go attitude of self-deprivation toward self-betterment. By going cold-turkey on holiday indulgences, we become wrapped up in a pattern of denying ourselves the very things that made us so jolly all December long. Many of these things became our crutches for Holiday Survival (mulled wine to ease awkward cocktail party conversation; Christmas cookies and sugar plums helped to stave off hunger while waiting for holiday meals; a cigarette taken outside to escape family arguments around the table). But come January 1, we are compelled to deny ourselves all of the wonderful foods we discovered during the holidays in the vain attempt to achieve perfection in the New Year and become conquerors of the New Year's Resolution Crapshoot.

Over the past few years, I have discovered something rather interesting. Like many 18-year-old-girls, I entered college with an intense fear of gaining the Freshman-15, and thus spent my first year living in New York City confined to the gym and bland salad bars, depressed and frustrated. Two years later I moved to Paris, where I spent four months without a gym and without salad bars, and I rediscovered -- of all the simple things -- the yolk of an egg. It was in Paris that I ate bread with every meal (white bread, no less), drank wine every evening, had butter smeared on almost everything, and ate chocolate every night before bed. And yet, much to the disbelief of my friends, I didn't gorge myself on croissants; all the while I lived in Paris, I had but one, and never craved the buttery patisserie. When I returned home, everyone was shocked and concerned: I had lost a considerable amount of weight without realizing it.

The weight loss wasn't because I had taken up chain smoking or starved myself; I ate all of my meals and snacked in between. Who wouldn't, when an entire city's philosophy is geared towards spending languorous hours eating and drinking in sidewalk cafés? I discovered the answer to what Michael Pollan in The Omnivore's Dilemma calls "the French paradox": "how could a people who eat such demonstrably toxic substances as foie gras and triple crème cheese actually be slimmer and healthier than we are?" Because the French invented the term "laissez faire" that we Capitalist Americans love to throw around. But, we regularly ignore the translation that the French use in their everyday lives: "Let it be: I simply don't care."

Here is where we come to the point: New Year's Resolutions are for sissies. They are cop-out ways of deluding ourselves into making our lives better. This year, resolve not to resolve anything. But do instead reflect on your personal goût, your tastes and what makes you happy. Forget about your crutches, and if you do have bad habits, kick them. But for your sake and the sake of all that tastes good, skip the diet and eat well.

Of course, there is a difference between eating healthy and not eating healthy. Eating out every night is unhealthy, as is eating at fast food restaurants and eating processed foods. So is not eating at all. Healthy eating is part practice and part philosophy -- but most of all, it's common sense. There is plenty out there to guide us toward healthy meals. When you think about what to prepare yourself, think healthy foods as tools to help you lose weight; think instead of foods to help you live healthfully -- ingredients that are good for the longevity of your body, and for the happiness of your soul.

But many of us need instruction and guidance, and so I will offer a bit of my own personal advice. I don't purport to be an expert on perfecting eating habits, but I do know about eating well.

1. Don't diet. Diets are about denial, and they are temporary. Everyone says "change the way you eat for life"; I would agree, but you should also change the way you think about food.

2. Food is a precious commodity (vegetable gardeners know how difficult it is to raise healthy crop), so treat it as such. Appreciate what you are eating, and for the love of food, eat real food that doesn't come sealed in plastic.

3. Vary your meals, experiment with new ingredients, and don't be afraid to use "unhealthy" ingredients in moderation. See what is available from local farmers, and enjoy the variety of eating seasonally. This is important to keep yourself interested in invested in eating well; anyone in their right mind would stop dieting just to get away from cottage cheese and melon.

4.
Feed yourself. This implies that you should be aware of those things for which you are hungry. Are you craving chocolate cake? Well, that's probably because you like chocolate cake. Allow yourself to eat the cake in correct portion and measure, pace yourself, eat it slowly. Chances are, after you've enjoyed your cake, you won't crave another piece five minutes later, tomorrow, or maybe even next week. That one piece of chocolate cake saved you from slurping down Weight Watchers chocolate shakes that taste like styrofoam until you've finally satiated your craving for chocolate.

5.
Always have dessert.


I will confess that I have made a resolution to myself: to keep up with my blogging. For everyone who has kept checking, thank you, and I promise that more is coming your way. Throughout January, I will give you some of my favorite healthy recipes, and I encourage you to send me some of your own.

So Happy New Year from me and from Goûter. As the French say before meals to encourage a healthy appetite: bon appétit!