Friday, September 14, 2007
Porcini Ravioli and Sage Butter Sauce
One afternoon, my Nanny Family made a special dinner request: porcini mushroom ravioli from Citarella, the "food mecca" of New York and the Hamptons. I don't shop at Citarella myself; I actually find it rather intimidating. When I go to market, I know how to shop by fingering around the produce to see what's in season, and by snooping around the aisles for things to work together into a meal. But Citarella has a different approach to grocery shopping. The little shop on 75th and Broadway is a food boutique where the incredibly selective array of food dictates what one is actually able to make. The "chef's helpers" and prepared foods are in abundance, however, which to me indicates that Citarella is more of a gourmet shop than a chef's market.
My gripes with the store aside, Citarella is a unique New York food destination. Their selection of meats and fish is diverse and fresh, the specialty foods are from all over the world, and the Citarella-brand goods are in a league unto themselves. Citarella's own ravioli are a fresh example of the store's commitment to quality. These delectable treats come with an array of fillings, from cheese to pumpkin, meats to broccoli rape. The ravioli are moist and savory; they are so fresh that the pasta literally melts onto the tongue. Because the Nanny Family is so keen on mushrooms, they requested the porcini mushroom ravioli. They are made with the perfect ratio of pasta to filling, the richness of which inspired me to craft the following sauce.
The simplicity of this sauce is what always astounds me every time I make it. It is visually unimpressive, but it is incredibly fragrant and packs a flavor that just tantalizes the senses. It is rich, yet light, and makes a perfect meal for an autumn day.
PORCINI RAVIOLI AND SAGE BUTTER SAUCE
Serves 4-6
Citarella-brand porcini mushroom ravioli (or another high-quality brand)
1 package fresh Sage leaves (about 2-3 bunches, must be fresh)
1 doz. Crimini Mushrooms
1 small Shallot, cut crosswise into paper-thin rounds, separated into rings
1 stick Unsalted Butter, at room temperature
1 Tbsp Olive Oil, with plenty on hand for frying sage and mushrooms
Pinch of salt and freshly ground black pepper
In a large stockpot, set aside water to boil to pasta.
Pick whole sage leaves from their stems, wash, and gently pat dry with a paper towel. Set aside.
Remove stem from mushrooms, and clean caps by wiping off dirt from caps with a paper towel and using a small spoon to gently remove the gills and the ring. Slice caps into thin pieces, keeping shape of mushroom cap in each slice. Set aside.
Heat a medium sauté pan on high heat. Add a liberal amount of olive oil to coat bottom of pan. Retain some smaller sage leaves aside, and use the larger leaves to fry. Carefully toss in sage leaves to fry; the oil will spatter as the leaves cook. Turn down heat to medium-high and fry until crispy and green-gold in color. Remove only leaves with a slotted spoon, placing on a clean paper towel to absorb excess oil.
Place pan back on medium-high heat. Use the remaining oil -- which is infused with the sage -- to fry mushrooms. Add more oil if necessary, heat well, and toss in mushroom slices. Fry until golden brown and crispy. Remove only mushrooms with a slotted spoon, placing on a clean paper towel to absorb excess oil.
Turn heat down to medium. Melt butter in pan, and cook for about a minute. Add shallots and remaining fresh sage leaves, and bring to a low boil for another minute. Add tablespoon of olive oil, and cook until fragrant, about three minutes. Season with salt and pepper and set aside.
Once the water in the stockpot is boiling fiercely, add a teaspoon of salt. Gently toss in ravioli, and cook for about 3-6 minutes, until all ravioli float to surface. Drain well. Transfer ravioli to plates. Drizzle butter sauce from the pan over plated ravioli. Top with fried mushrooms and sage leaves; serve immediately.
Buon appetito!
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